, generally, were one or
two branches of what looked like myrtle stuck into pieces of bamboo
which serve for flower-pots. These monuments, crowded together around
the temples and overshadowed by the lofty trees, had a very graceful
effect.

We have just committed an act of vigour. In place of going into the
harbour of Kanagawa where Count Putiatine is at anchor, I have
determined to proceed to a point several miles higher up nearer to
Yeddo. We completely foil by our audacity all the poor Japanese
officials. I have said nothing of the bazaar of Simoda, where there
were a great many pretty things, of which I bought some, nor of a
visit which the Governor paid to me. He was a very jolly fellow, liked
his luncheon and a joke. He made the conventional protests against my
going on, &c., but when he saw it was of no use, he dropped the
subject. The Japanese are a most curious contrast to the Chinese, so
anxious to learn, and so _prevenants_. God grant that in opening their
country to the West, we may not be bringing upon them misery and ruin.

[Sidenote: Off Yeddo.]
[Sidenote: Sanctity of custom.]

_Off Yeddo.--August 14th._--We moved yesterday to within about one
mile of the shore off the suburb of Yeddo. The shore is flat, and the
buildings of the town, interspersed with trees and enclosures, seem to
stretch to a great distance along the crescent-shaped bay. Immediately
in front of the town and opposite to us are five large batteries. Four
Japanese men-of-war built on European models are anchored beside us.
Three princes came off to see me yesterday. They were exceedingly
civil, but very anxious to get me to go back to Kanagawa, a port about
ten miles down the bay, from which they said they would convey me by
land to Yeddo. Of course I would not agree to this. They were very
much puzzled (and no wonder) by my two names. I complimented the
prince on the beautiful Fusiama, calling it a high mountain. 'Oh!' he
said at once, 'I have seen a scale of mountains, and I know that there
are many much higher than Fusiama.' There were persons in the suite
taking down in shorthand every word that passed in conversation, and I
thought I saw in one of their note-books a sketch of my face. No doubt
these were spies also, to watch and report on the proceedings of the
officials, for that seems to be the gr