f a temple. It consists of some small
rooms forming two sides of a square, with a verandah running in front
of them. From the verandah you step into a garden not very well kept,
with a pond and trees, and some appearance of care in laying it out.
In the centre is the temple, with a back-door opening into the garden.
I entered it yesterday, and found a 'buddha' coming out of the lotus,
looking very freshly gilt and well cared for. There were in the temple
two or three priests, who seem to live there; at any rate, one was
asleep on the matting, which, as I told you, is in Japanese houses
laid on the top of a bed of straw. They are charmingly soft and clean,
as all shoes are put off on entering. The natives use neither tables,
chairs, nor beds. They lie, sit, and feed on this matting. They have
made considerable exertions, however, to fit up our houses on European
principles. We landed yesterday at noon. The day was fine, and the
procession of boats imposing. An immense crowd of good-natured,
curious people lined both sides of the streets along which we passed.
The streets are wide and handsome. We were preceded and accompanied by
officers to keep off the crowd, but a blow with a fan was the heaviest
penalty that I saw inflicted on anyone breaking the line. At every
fifty yards, or so, the street was crossed by large gates, which were
closed as soon as our procession passed through, which prevented a
rush after us. On arriving, as I had nothing else to do, I proposed a
ride through the town, to the considerable consternation of our
attendants. We set off on saddles made of hard and rather sharp bits
of wood, stirrups which I can't undertake to describe, and our knees
in our mouths. However, we made our way to the quarter of the Palace
or Castle. As we approached it, we passed through streets inhabited by
princes. I did not enter any of their houses, but they seem to be
constructed somewhat on the principle of the _entre cour et jardin_
houses in parts of Paris. On the street front the offices,
substantially built, and often with very handsome gateways. The
'Castle' is surrounded by three concentric enclosures, consisting of
walls and moats. They are at a considerable distance from each other,
and the Emperor resides in the innermost enclosure, from which he
never goes out. The intervals betwe