relieved altogether from charges to which they would be liable if
the property of natives. On the other hand, experience had taught
us the inconvenience of leaving the amount of duties payable under
the head of transit-duties altogether undetermined. By requiring
the rates of transit-duty to be published at each port; and by
acquiring for the British subject the right to commute the said
duties for a payment of 2-1/2 per cent. on the value of his goods
(or rather, to speak more correctly, for the payment of a specific
duty calculated at that rate), I hope that I have provided for the
latter as effectual a guarantee against undue exactions on this head
as can be obtained without an entire subversion, of the financial
system of China.

CHAPTER X.

FIRST MISSION TO CHINA. JAPAN.

EMBARK FOR JAPAN--COAST VIEWS--SIMODA--OFF YEDDO--YEDDO--CONFERENCES--A
COUNTRY RIDE--PEACE AND PLENTY--FEUDAL SYSTEM--A TEMPLE--A
JUGGLER--SIGNING THE TREATY--ITS TERMS--RETROSPECT.

[Sidenote: Embark for Japan.]

'On the last day of July, 1858,' writes Mr. Oliphant, we embarked on board
the "Furious," delighted, under any circumstances, to escape from the
summer heats of Shanghae, were it only for a few weeks; but our
gratification increased by the anticipation of visiting scenes which had
ever been veiled in the mystery of a jealous and rigid seclusion.'... There
was a charm also in the very indefiniteness and uncertainty of the objects
of the expedition. 'I do not exactly know,' wrote Lord Elgin, 'what I shall
do when I get to Nagasaki; but, at any rate, I shall ascertain what my
chances are of making a satisfactory treaty with Japan.'

The 'Furious' was accompanied by the 'Retribution' and by the 'Lee'
gunboat; and it was arranged that the Admiral should join them at Nagasaki.

_Nagasaki.--August 3rd._--We have had beautiful weather, and have
reached this point,--a quiet, small-looking town, fringing the bottom
of a bay, which is itself the close of a channel passing between
ranges of high volcanic hills, rugged and bold, but luxuriant with
vegetation and trees, and cultivated in terraces up to their summits.
I have seen nothing so beautiful in point of scenery for many a long
day. No sort of difficulty has been made to our progress up to the
town. The only symptom of objection I observed was an official in a
boat, who w