The aristocracy of Canton is not one of wealth, but of intellectual
honors; many of the Chinamen who are seen wearing horn-rimmed spectacles
are either of a literary turn of mind or are attempting to pass as such.

Seen from the city wall or any very high point, Canton seems a city of
roofs, with scarcely an opening and not a vestige of green. The narrow
streets are many of them covered with awnings. It is a city of great
color, the brilliant signs, the covered palanquin chairs, the costumes
of the wealthy Chinese, all contributing to the riotous effect. It is a
city of very wide contrasts, for rich and poor jostle each other on the
streets and their homes are often side by side.

Canton is, after all, even with the noise, smells, and dirt included, a
fascinating city, and while one would not care to remain long in it, one
should never omit it.

Shameen, the island of concession, where are located two hotels,
consulates, churches, some shops, and the homes of all the foreign
residents, is a most pleasing place. Long avenues of trees are seen on
every side, the grounds of many of the homes sloping to the river,
which of itself adds to the beauty; the water is spanned by two iron
bridges which are locked every night; everywhere a general air of
refinement prevails. This very Shameen furnishes the greatest contrast
of all to hoary, venerable old Canton.

[Illustration: _The San Paulo Facade_]

It is claimed that Canton's origin dates from three hundred years before
the Christian era. The city was then encircled by a kind of stockade
made of bamboo and river mud, and it resembled a camp in most of its
details. A thousand years and Canton is alluded to as a commercial city,
with a special commissioner appointed by the Government to superintend
foreign trade. At an early date the great pass was constructed through
the Mei-hung range of mountains, and this proves to be one of the
principal trade-routes in use at the present time. Another thousand
years and we have the city of to-day, with its peculiar conditions, its
fascinations. Surely its age commands our respect. Its people, seemingly
impassive, are a subject for study, as are all the Chinese. Will the
Western mind ever be able to understand this? I have a theory that
behind the impassiveness there is a certain kind of responsiveness if it
can be reached, but thus far I have only been able to test it upon house
servants in California and those who have served us at