ew than from its artistic aspect.

After luncheon we went to Yaba Meczan's Satsuma studio. This artist is
celebrated, having taken prizes at both the Chicago and St. Louis
Expositions, and his work surpassed any I had ever seen. The decoration
on some of the vases was so fine that it required a glass to bring out
the full and minute detail. In designing and decorating these vases the
work has to be done with a magnifying glass, which is a very severe
strain on the eyes. We then proceeded up what is called Theatre Street,
so named because of the situation of several playhouses in the midst of
prominent shops. Banners and signs were displayed in every available
space, all of different colors, and the general effect was very unusual
as they floated in the breeze. Later in the afternoon we took a train
for Kyoto.

* * * * *

KYOTO, _April 15th_: The following morning another heavy rain greeted
us. We were now in the Japanese city which retains more of the old life
and customs than any other, not having been spoiled as yet by modern
innovations. The bad weather abating in the afternoon, we went to the
temple Nishi Otani. This is situated on quite an eminence. We crossed a
stone bridge spanning a lotus pond, and walked up an inclined way paved
with granite, a flight of steps leading to the handsome main gate which
faces a strikingly carved two-storied structure. We took our places on
the steps and awaited the arrival of the procession of Buddhist priests,
this being the chief object of our visit. They came in large numbers,
walking two by two, and arrayed in the most gorgeous brocades, no two
being of the same pattern. Around the waist they wore wide sashes of
equal richness and beauty, and the effect was truly very striking, as
they walked up the hill. This was one of the features of the rite of
commemoration, the ceremonies continuing through the week. We then
visited some shops, of which there are a large number, all of them very
interesting.

[Illustration: _The rapids near Kyoto_]

[Illustration: _Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto_]

Shintoism is the State religion, and the following morning we visited
one of the temples, named Kitano Tenjin. Entering through the great
stone torii or gateway, we found stone lanterns, together with stone and
bronze bulls presented by devotees. Another torii and a couple of
two-storied gates were passed through, the last being called the Gate of
the Three Luminar