eresting than the Chinese
theatre previously described.

During the week a large Collver party of eighteen arrived at the hotel;
they were later to go to North China and by the Trans-Siberian route to
Russia. Their Director gave a Japanese dinner in which we were included,
Mr. Burton Holmes and his friend being the only other guests present.
The dining-room was in the Japanese portion of the hotel, arranged with
rugs and draperies covering the hardwood floors in quite an artistic
manner, and at the sides were placed cushions on which we were supposed
to sit or kneel. The formal exercises were mostly conducted by geisha
and Maiko girls, three officiating as musicians, several more dancing,
and others serving as attendants. Everything was done in the most
measured manner. First, boxes were placed before us containing four
articles, all dishes of peculiar concoctions. These were intended, we
imagined, for us to look at for a time until the musicians and dancers
appeared. The programme was opened with a musical number, which was
anything but musical; the dancers then took their positions and went
through the usual formal measures. There was more music, then another
dance. This was repeated three or four times. The attendant geisha
girls were seated at intervals in front of the guests.

At a certain signal the music and dancing ceased, and trays were brought
us on which were soup (we imagined the famous bird's-nest), a cup of
sake, two more peculiar dishes, and also chopsticks! By this time the
kneeling process had become rather painful, and I availed myself of the
cup of sake, feeling I needed some stimulant. This was the only
refreshment I tried, but some of the party had the courage to experiment
further. After some deliberation and a little more converse, we arose
from our repast and proceeded to the hotel dining-room, where a
substantial dinner was served us at nine o'clock. This was altogether
the most unique affair of the week and greatly enjoyed by all. The eight
days in Kyoto had flown and we would gladly have remained longer. The
atmosphere of the place was so truly of the past, the temples so very
interesting, and the quaint customs of the olden times so well retained,
that it gave a peculiar charm to the place.

* * * * *

NARA, _April 23d_: A day's excursion to Nara was planned, but a heavy
rain somewhat marred our enjoyment. Nara was once a place of much
importance, the capita