pilgrims come to the
village during July and August to make the ascent to the sacred
mountain, Nantaisan, two thousand feet above the sea-level. This is not
so very difficult, since at points there are stairways that give ready
access. Shrines and tea-houses are stationed all along the road, as the
Japanese never neglect creature comforts. Eight miles further on is
situated Yunoto village and the lake which bears the same name and is
celebrated for its hot springs. This place is said to be as attractive
as Lake Chuzenji. We left Nikko on an early morning train with a strong
desire some day to return and make a more protracted stay.

* * * * *

TOKIO, _April 30th_: Leaving Nikko, with an altitude of two thousand
feet higher than the sea, for Tokio, one hundred miles distant and at
sea-level, was a decided drop. The day was bright and the views from the
car window gave one an ever-varying panorama, consisting of mountains, a
long avenue of tall cryptomerias that seemed to extend for miles,
cultivated fields, and luxuriant vegetation freshened by the recent
rain. Nature put forth her loveliest Spring tints, to which cherry
blossoms ever and anon gave a touch of color. Arriving at Tokio in the
afternoon, and going to the Imperial Hotel, I had a two days' reunion
with eight of the "party" who had already arrived there. We took a
general drive on the first afternoon, past the palace built on the ruins
of the old Shogun palace, in its new guise a long rambling building of
yellow brick. The old gateways with their towers were at the front
entrance and were a feature of the scene. The arrangement of the rooms
in the interior of the palace was said to be pleasing, the dining-room
being unusually large. The walls and decorations are also fine, but the
furnishings, a mixture of Japanese and European styles, are not so
harmonious. We also passed the Crown Prince's palace, and then went on
from Hibiya Park to the street on which are situated the brick buildings
of the Naval Department, the Judicial Department, and the Courts of
Justice.

[Illustration: _The Imperial Palace at Tokio_]

We saw the Russian Embassy, the Chinese Legation, and also some palaces
and residences of many officers and foreign embassies. This
neighborhood, called Nagata-cha, is the most fashionable in Tokio. Near
the palace lies a garden planted with azaleas, and also containing some
trellises wholly covered in season with wist