lung near the water front, and we
walked through the usual crowded Chinese streets. The town was laid out
in one long thoroughfare, overlooking the water and sloping backward to
the lesser mountains. We returned, content with the good cheer aboard
our steamer, and were soon sailing on.

[Illustration: _The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River_]

We passed Nanking, formerly the southern capital of China and once a
place of great importance--indeed, a seat of learning and of art. Only
the distant walls could be seen. A little north of Nanking are located
two of the Ming tombs.

The following morning, at eleven, we were again permitted to land, this
time at Wu-ho, quite a large town and evidently the centre for several
industries. After wandering through a few native streets, we took
jinrikishas and visited the heights above. Here was situated a fine
garden filled with rose trees all in bloom, the property of the son of
the noted statesman, Li Hung Chang. This was said to be one of his many
palaces; at present he is Minister to England. The afternoon afforded us
a variety of points of interest to seek out; long low islands, boldly
defined mountains, an occasional village, and coves filled with shipping
of all kinds, from the sampan to the five-sail junk. The shores were
clothed with the wonderful green of Spring, which, to my mind, was
excelled only by the matchless verdure of Java.

On the morning of May 15th we met with constant surprises; first, there
was the boldly defined little Orphan Rock, the seat of a Buddhist
monastery which contained, however, only a small retinue of monks. Two
hours later, on the left side of the Yangtse River, there appeared for
the first time a long avenue of trees near the water's edge, while
beyond it was a range of mountains higher than we had seen. Nestling
between two mountains which seemed to hug the water was a village with a
remarkable wall stretching from one peak to the other, and curving down,
thus encircling the town; this wall had a crenellated edge and was
perfectly preserved.

The mountain range continued for some time, and then was succeeded by
the more prevailing flat shore, which soon merged again into mountains.
Perched high up on a projecting hill, another monastery gleamed white
through the encircling trees. We sailed onward toward the right, and the
Captain pointed out on our left the entrance to Lake Poyang, which shone
in the distance, and rising boldly out of