the tall stone
lanterns; this we also enjoyed, our guide taking us out on the lake in a
sampan; and as we rode toward the great torii it seemed to assume
immense proportions, while the effect of the lanterns was magical. It
was indeed a fairylike scene.

We were called at four the following morning, breakfasted at five, and
were on our steamer before six for the trip to Onomichi on the Inland
Sea. The island was lovely as we left in the early light; and the whole
landscape, from the towering mountain in the distance, the lesser ones
sloping down to the plateau, to the sea, scintillated in brilliant
color; even the great stone lanterns that were so unique the evening
previous now stood out in bold relief, and the old torii was statelier
than ever. As the little village and shore line faded away, we wished an
artist could have caught the view. We sailed out into the finest part of
the Inland Sea, where the shore was deeply indented with rocky
promontories, which first ended in a high projection to our right; to
the left was a continuous line of low islands. A wide extent of open sea
was the next scene in the panorama, to be succeeded by a picturesque
island, clad in verdure; then two small, boldly defined, rocky islands;
next a low range of five islands slightly connected, seeming like a tiny
range in mid-ocean; a higher chain of islands was crenellated and
presented the appearance of being scooped out and showing a light yellow
soil. The scene now narrowed, and the mountains on either side showed
signs of cultivation, the terraces running almost to the top. The guide
told us that barley was the principal cereal raised. A marvellous island
to our left now presented itself; this had a high, rocky base, from
which seemingly sprang a miniature forest, the tall towering evergreens
lending a fringelike appearance near the skyline. And so the panorama
continued with ever-increasing variety.

[Illustration: _Stone lanterns, Miyajima_]

We paused at Ujima, the port of Hiroshima, where perhaps is located the
most wonderful garden in Japan. Ujima is a place of twelve thousand
inhabitants, and the taking on of cargo consumed an hour. Soon after, we
came to an island which had been transformed into a magazine; the side
presented to us was a solid wall of rock. This was the precursor to our
arrival at Kore, the most important naval station in Japan. The steamer
touched anchor, which gave us an opportunity to note the many
war-vesse