ed close to the shore of Lake Hakone, a
beautiful body of water with wooded shores. This lake is popular for
boating and bathing.

From the window we looked out on the distant sacred mountain, Fujiyama,
which is revered by all Japan. Sometimes the clouds rested lovingly on
its crest, and sometimes almost veiled it, but twice we saw the entire
snow-covered space and no adjective can describe the matchless glory of
that view. Poets have sung of it, and legend has woven fantastic tales
around it, which the natives accept without a doubt.

Mt. Fugii is the scene in Summer of constant visitations--about forty
thousand pilgrims appearing there yearly, mostly of the working-class.
Before the sixteenth century the mountain was in a constant state of
eruption, the last great activity occurring at the beginning of the
eighteenth century.

The ride across the lake is pleasant,--the castle an interesting
feature,--and by taking it, one discovers a different way to return to
Miyanoshita, but I preferred the route of the morning, as the reverse
views are always reinforcingly interesting.

There were pleasant short walks from our hotel and many very easy
excursions, so one naturally lingers, as long as possible. The friends I
alluded to had been there two weeks. I left with regret.

The third morning we started out in a pouring rain, and so had a closed
jinrikisha; if we missed the beauty of the scenery in our descent to
Yumoto, we took comfort in the fact that we escaped the "bill-board"!

Arriving at Yokohama, I found a whole bevy of friends at the hotel
awaiting the departure of the next steamer for San Francisco. We had all
met at different places, once, twice, or thrice, and thus pleasant
reminiscences and sociability now prevailed. Three were to leave on the
_Korea_, scheduled to sail on June 29th, which augured well for my
homeward passage.

I had intended returning to Tokio, but, remembering each detail of my
former visit vividly, I decided instead to try to see Tokio through
others' eyes. The Emperor and Empress are spoken of with the utmost
respect, the Emperor being progressive in public and political ideas.
The Empress is said to have a fine mind and to be accomplished; in
matters of social importance she has been instrumental in breaking down
many barriers; and while we needs must regret the adoption of Parisian
modes of dress by the court, we must remember it was done with the
distinct purpose of harmonizing the