essary to resort to revolution in
order to effect needed reforms? Time alone will determine.

* * * * *

[Illustration: _The Dowager Empress of China_]

TIENTSIN, _May 26th_: We left Peking in the morning, and reached
Tientsin at 11 A.M., going to the Imperial Hotel, where we were to
remain two days. After luncheon we took a drive, first to the native
city. There remains of the old walls and two fine gateways, which stand
as reminders of an historic past, are to be seen. The street groups and
bazars were similar to those observed in other cities, but far less
interesting than those in Peking. The native city is said to number from
six hundred thousand to a million persons; and yet, so extended and
complete is the ground covered by the different foreign concessions,
numbering less than four thousand persons, that they virtually represent
the Tientsin of to-day; the British concession alone sets the tone to
the city, with its fine business blocks. In Memorial Hall, dedicated to
General Gordon, the municipal offices of the concession are located. The
fine Public Garden is the centre, three times a week, of a military band
concert, which attracts a large attendance and makes a brilliant scene,
with its myriad electric lights. This feature of Tientsin life was
introduced long ago by Viceroy Li Hung Chang, early in his term of
office (1870-1891); and he is said to have paid for the instruction of
the first military band. The building of the Industrial Association is
popularly called "pigs in clover," and we learned from actual
experience that the name was truly applied, as we had to make the long
weary round before we could secure an exit.

On Victoria Road there are many private residences, and an imposing
English Club edifice in the midst of large and attractive grounds.

The morning of the second day was devoted to incidental things; in the
afternoon we attended a Chinese theatre which was similar to the one we
had seen in Hong-Kong, only actors, who were grotesque acrobats, now
took the place of the previous ballet-dancers. In the evening we
attended a fine concert in the Public Gardens. The music was furnished
by the Cameron Guards in Highland costume. It was a fine opportunity to
see the English contingent, and from the Astor House across the way came
ladies in evening dress; hats and wraps were also in evidence; and, in
the rear, were files of soldiers of various nations from the diff