s an island clad in
verdure; behind, the towering mountains; then farther off, a lesser
peak, sloping down to the sea; a promontory jutted out at the right,
ribbed with terraces from which peeped forth tiny shoots of delicate
green. Scarcely had I time to catch a glimpse before the panorama
changed. This scene was repeated with slight variations until suddenly
there appeared a break, and in a cove were moored many little boats;
next came a tall mountain sloping down to the sea, with a wealth of
foliage along the side, while on the top was a fringe of tall trees,
like so many hills seen in Japan. I had cause to wonder if this too was
not one of the many expressions of Nature's artistic sense.

One scene succeeded another, and I became almost oblivious to all
thought of dressing until the gong rang for breakfast. I felt
rebellious, and, on that morning at least, the meal seemed a
desecration, the sacrifice of an opportunity. Once before, I had a
similar early morning experience; that was at Laggan, on the Canadian
Pacific Railway, when, on awakening, I beheld directly opposite my
window lovely Lake Louise and the beautiful glacier mirrored within the
opalescent blue. This day in Japan ended with a glorious sunset, and,
as the gold and azure melted away into nothingness, it was a fitful
close to hours of rare enjoyment.

On the morning following, I was again awakened, this time by the magic
word Nagasaki, and I beheld another never-to-be-forgotten scene. The
harbor and shipping lay in the foreground; beyond the shore line rose
large buildings, smaller ones creeping up the mountain side; this whole
panorama was bathed in sunlight. Immediately on landing a jinrikisha
ride was enjoyed, and I was propelled about in an aimless fashion,
enjoying the street scenes, visiting the heights, and the Horse's
Temple. It was a restless, irresponsible kind of day that I enjoyed, and
I returned to the steamer at five o'clock with considerable regret. Half
an hour later we were sailing away for Shanghai; and again we saw
islands, promontories, and inlets quite like those of the day previous.

On Saturday morning, the 9th, we were anchored at Wusong, waiting for
the arrival of the health officer. Thereafter we took a ride of an hour
in the steam launch. Shanghai seemed more European on our second
arrival, and the Bund on the front more attractive. We made the Palace
Hotel our destination, and learned with regret of the non-arrival of the