o be seen.

An old mossy staircase and a time-worn pavement lead to Ieyasu's tomb,
before which stand two long tables. Here are placed the usual bronze
ornaments, consisting of a stork, an incense burner, and a vase of
bronze lotus flowers. The tomb, shaped like a small pagoda, has a
single bronze casting of a light color, produced, it is said, by a
mixture of gold. Leaving the mausoleum, I passed down through the courts
and gateways until I came to the avenue of cryptomerias, visiting a
number of temples on the way, and finally I reached Iemitzu's temple. A
massive stone staircase and a fine gateway are among the many details of
an attractive exterior that claim attention. The temple is much less
magnificent than Ieyasu's, but a more perfect representation of the
Buddhist art, inasmuch as here can be seen the interior as it was
originally. After the restoration in 1886, the interiors of all the
other temples were changed to meet the requirements of the Shinto faith,
that being the State religion. The tomb is reached by a flight of steps
running up the side of the wall. It is of the same general style as that
of Ieyasu. In the afternoon a walk back of the temple of Ieyasu revealed
more stone lanterns, shrines, and toriis.

At Nikko the homes are attractive, with their open space and their
verandas. The Park and Botanical Garden are also not without interest.
Sometimes a shrine could be seen, and with the inmates dressed in pretty
kimonos, it was truly a fascinating picture, unlike anything that had
elsewhere struck our fancy. The invariable smile, bow, and courtesy that
always greet you place a finishing and charming touch to the whole.

[Illustration: _The gate called Yomei-mon_]

The bazar or long street of shops was enticing, with so many souvenirs
to choose from. The thoroughfare itself presented a never-ending
panorama of carts, packhorses, natives, pilgrims, and tourists.

There were several tempting excursions of two or three miles each, the
most celebrated of which was to Lake Chuzenji, eight miles distant. This
required an early morning departure in a jinrikisha. The ride there was
through a region which affords a fine example of the Japanese method of
cultivating the soil. The little homes were attractive. Potatoes, rice,
and millet seemed to be the principal crops. Chuzenji Lake is a marvel
of beauty, with its many walks along the shore. Luncheon was served at
the hotel. It is estimated that ten thousand