l of Japan during seven reigns, stretching from
709 to 784 A.D. Its chief attraction now is the great natural beauty of
the place, some fine temples, and a deer park. Kasuga is a noted Shinto
temple. The approach is through the celebrated grounds where were seen
many deer, apparently very tame. A fine avenue of cryptomerias added
much to the dignity of the approach. The temple stands at the end of a
long avenue of stone lanterns, some of which are lighted every night.
The main temple is painted red, with brass lanterns, and surrounded by
cryptomerias. A religious dance, which is held in a building near by, is
one of the many attractive features of this temple. The dress of the
dancers is peculiar, composed of a wide red divided skirt, a white
under-garment, and a long gauze mantle. The hair is worn in a thick
tress down the back, a chaplet of flowers is on the forehead, the face
very much powdered, and in the hands are carried either the branches of
a tree or some tiny bells which are swayed back and forth in a measured
manner. The orchestra consists of three priests.

There is a fine Buddhist temple, renovated in 1898. It is built on the
side of a hill; a flight of steps leads up to it and the whole front is
covered with metal lanterns which produce a weird effect. Not far
distant is a large temple which contains a bronze Buddha called
Dai-butsu. When we saw it, the temple was in a chaotic condition,
undergoing renovation. The height of the Buddha is fifty-three and
one-half feet; the face is sixteen feet long and nine and one-half feet
broad. It is in a sitting position, with right hand uplifted. Nara has a
fine museum, well equipped for the study of early Japanese religions.

* * * * *

YAMADA, _April 23d_: In the afternoon we left for Yamada, the city of
the celebrated Temple of Ise. On arriving, we took quite a drive up the
mountain side to Furuichi and to the Goni-Kwai Hotel, a large,
beautifully situated Japanese hostelry with a European department. This
consisted of eight rooms, furnished comfortably in European style, even
with grates, but we had the novelty of Japanese environment as we walked
down the corridors and passed little Japanese rooms with sliding screens
and open windows. In the morning, we walked up the hill and had a
magnificent view; we left early in jinrikishas for a long day's
programme. First we went through the town, the shops forming part of a
long street, wi