like the other great temple and
mausoleum of his grandson, Iemitzu (farther on), was erected in the
seventeenth century, at a time when the art of building shrines was at
its perfection, as was the work in lacquer and bronze, wood carving and
decorative painting. Every detail is perfect, and the great predominance
of red and gold lacquer with its setting of green produced a striking
effect, but without being in the least garish. Indeed, the keynote to
all the buildings and interiors we have seen in Japan, of any age
whatsoever, has been chasteness of design and harmony. If we sometimes
find a discordant note in modern Japanese art, I fear Western taste has
had some influence, if it be true that the producer ever seeks to please
the purchaser.

[Illustration: _The way to the Temple, Ieyasu_]

[Illustration: _Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple_]

With all this perfection on every side, it becomes even more difficult
to give any adequate description, so that an outline comprising only
general details will be suggested. A quotation explains my position
fully. Dr. Dresser once wrote: "Any words that I can use must fail to
convey any adequate idea of the consciousness of the work, the
loveliness of the compositions, the harmoniousness of the colors, and
the beauty of the surroundings here before me; and yet the adjectives
which I have tried to heap one upon another, in the hope of conveying to
the reader what I--an architect and ornamentist--feel when contemplating
these matchless shrines, must appear, I am afraid, altogether
unreasonable." The difficulty is further added to by the fact that there
are in all six groups of temples with numerous associated buildings and
gateways in the near vicinity, although Ieyasu and Iemitzu are the most
famous.

The approach to Ieyasu Temple is most unusual. Within the two courts,
each with toriis and stone steps, are many notable adjuncts to the
temples, the five-story pagoda, one hundred and four feet high, being a
marvel of rich lacquered walls. It has peculiar brass-trimmed roofs and
bells hanging from every angle. Three artistic buildings are used as
storehouses, where articles employed in worship, pictures, and many
treasures of Ieyasu are deposited. Near by is a finely carved gateway
leading to a beautiful carved water cistern which is cut out of one
solid piece of granite and sheltered by a roof supported on twelve
square pillars of stone, all erected in 1618. A beautifully decorated
buil