th open fronts and interiors. We then crossed a bridge to
a suburb which contained the celebrated Temple of Ise. We proceeded up a
long avenue, containing torii No. 1, torii No. 2, and torii No. 3,
entering what is called the inner Temple of Ise, which, like all Shinto
places of worship, is very plain on the exterior. We were not
permitted to enter, but were obliged to look through an open enclosure.
Our Japanese guide knelt down, bowed, and clapped his hands three times,
which is the act of devotion of all Shintoites on their approaching any
temple. In the rear there was another temple which we saw only from the
outside; the guide told us that at this shrine Marquis Ito came to offer
thanks for the success of the Chinese-Japanese war in 1894, and that
Admiral Togo also came at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. It is
estimated that at least half a million pilgrims repair annually to the
Temple of Ise, but the educated class seldom visits the place,--perhaps
not more than once in a lifetime.

[Illustration: _The Temple of Ise (Yamada)_]

We then drove eight miles to Futami, a seaside resort with a pretty
Japanese tea-house fronting the water. Here is a peculiar formation of
rock called "The Husband and Wife Rocks," connected by a chain. The
bazar is quite interesting, and we had our luncheon at the tea-house,
served in Japanese style, which means that we would have had nothing but
tea if our thoughtful guide had not brought a basket with us. The return
trip of eight miles was over a little different route, more picturesque
even than the first. Arriving at Yamada, we went to the outer Temple of
Ise. Here, as in the inner temple, there is a large house for sacred
dances.

Many tea-houses in Yamada furnish music during the evening. We visited
a very artistic place, said to be five hundred years old, and there we
saw one of the sacred dances peculiar to that province.

* * * * *

NAGOYA, _April 25th_: We left in the morning for Nagoya, and were guests
at the Nagoya Hotel. This is a flourishing, commercial city, with one of
the longest and widest streets we had seen in Japan. The garrison
occupies the castle, whose approach is the same as in the olden
time--through gates and past moats. This castle was erected in 1610 by
twenty great feudal lords to serve as a residence for Ieyasu's son. Like
other Japanese castles, it is a wooden building, standing on immense
walls which are eighteen