to the place of places in Bangkok, thoroughly Chinese in
character,--a combination of gambling-den, chop-house, and theatre,
covering in space about a block. The gambling-den was dimly lighted, and
on the floor in a large circle were seated men and women, either
playing the game of fan-tan or anxiously awaiting their turn. I did not
understand the game, but the haggard expressions and restless attitudes
around me told a tale of dissipation and ruin. We remained only a few
moments, then passed into the chop-house, which was crowded and where
eatables of the Chinese type were _en evidence_ in every direction. The
theatre was not yet open, but it was spacious, with a large stage. This
compound is only one of several, and while mainly patronized by Chinese,
many Siamese and people of other nationalities are drawn in. Tales
similar to those heard in Monte Carlo could be related. It is to be
hoped that erelong the King will bring about some measure to abolish
this standing menace to the morals of the community.

A pleasant dinner and much discussion followed. We learned that there
were fine hospitals and schools under different missionary auspices, Dr.
W---- being Presbyterian. To prove the success of the so-called
Christian effort, he stated that the King gave every encouragement to
all denominations, and also donated money to aid in building churches,
feeling that their influence in the country was good.

[Illustration: _In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok_]

The Roman Catholics on account of their priority have a wide field in
Siam; they have erected about sixty churches in the kingdom. But there
are, nevertheless, several Protestant churches of different
denominations in Bangkok and in the interior. A special permit is
necessary before visiting Wang Chang, the royal palace, a point of much
interest. The walls around the building enclose a wide area, including
the old mint and various Government departments. Just in the rear of the
Department of the Interior, the sacred white elephants are to be found,
five in number. They are, however, at present pale gray (whatever they
may have been in the past), which detracts somewhat from the validity of
the previous statement. Each animal has a house to himself, is greatly
petted, and it is expected that the elephants will be treated by
visitors to bananas, and the attendants to cigarettes.

Approaching the palace, the Royal Halls of Audience are the most
striking feature