f feather jewelry.

Then the wonderful Chinese signs! We had noticed and admired them in
Hong-Kong, but in size and beauty they now far excelled anything of the
kind we had seen before. They extended from an upper story, for these
bazars were many of them on the ground floor of four-story apartments,
each story having its front gallery where one could witness diversified
scenes of family life. The signs are about a half a yard wide and are
decorated from top to bottom, with gold and brilliant colors, the
Chinese letters forming a large feature of the display. These signs
(sometimes five grouped together) are wonderfully effective, as they
sway back and forth in the wind, and they are a partial indication of
the Chinese industry which prevails.

[Illustration: _A five-story pagoda_]

There were larger shops in better locations in the city, and here we
found the grass linen embroidered articles and the crape for which
Canton is famous.

The following morning, we departed on a more serious sight-seeing
expedition, to include all manner of typical Cantonese places, but
before I had been out an hour I decided that the description of one
temple only would not adequately convey a true impression, for
everywhere we went things seemed unreal and grotesque, but interesting.
First, we entered what our guide termed the Medicine Temple, not so very
large, where on the opposite side of the room huge idols were placed
before all manner of receptacles for holding medicine; next a Buddhist
Temple, very inferior to any we had seen; then a Confucian temple, plain
like the majority of them; while a Shinto temple had the characteristic
torii before it. This latter I will describe when Japan, the land of the
torii, is the topic.

The Five-story Pagoda is quite imposing, as it is placed on the city
wall and commands a wide view. It is the custom for parties to go there
and take their picnic luncheon, and our guide had planned for us to do
this, but unfortunately the pagoda was being repaired and visitors were
not permitted. So we proceeded to a large building on an eminence, which
was furnished like a club house and was evidently for public use. There
was a conventional garden in front, affording a very extended view.

A visit to the so-called "Home of the Dead" followed; this was unlike
anything ever experienced before. We entered an enclosure, laid out
partly as a garden; there were walks leading around, and some of them
had low room