ruggles are kept
from assuming dangerous proportions by trained elephants which range up
alongside of them and aid their masters in every possible way,
apparently taking quite a delight in the task. These hunts occur at
regular intervals, and are generally attended by a large number of
foreign visitors. Accidents, even deaths, sometimes happen, but these
are not frequent. We regretted we were not in Siam at the proper season
to witness such a scene.

[Illustration: _The famous Elephants' Kraal_]

After a picnic luncheon, we proceeded down the river, stopping at
different points to visit temples of varying interest; one was
particularly noteworthy, as it contained a very large Buddha in the back
of the temple and a row of brass Buddhas around three of its sides, some
of them in fine repousse work. At Ban Pa In we left the launch to take
the train. Here the King has two palaces.

Ban Pa In is on an island in the Menam River. One handsome palace is in
the European style, and another is of a pure Chinese pattern. There is a
modern temple of Gothic style, built fifteen years ago. Near the palace
a tower affords a fine view.

We arrived at Bangkok late in the afternoon, feeling well pleased with
our day's excursion.

Fifty years ago Bangkok had none of the public buildings to be seen
to-day,--perhaps a mile of good road and streets in only fair condition;
now there are numerous drives and perfect communication to every point
of the city. There are twelve miles of electric railway line, soon to be
extended, while leading out from Bangkok are hundreds of miles of
well-equipped railways. Jinrikishas are used in Bangkok, but with
foreigners carriages are preferred. The native street, called Sampeng,
is really a Chinese-Siamese combination, and might be termed a bazar on
the order of those visited in previous cities. The streets, filled with
strong odors, are small lanes running parallel with the river, and to me
were less interesting than previous bazars, the venders seeming to be
apathetic and having less variety of goods. This impression may,
however, have been due to the midday hour, for the natives,
understanding the climate, are only alert during the mornings and
evenings. The season may also have lessened the dash and excitement of
the street. We were told there were quite as many tribes and
nationalities represented in Bangkok as in Singapore, and such a mixture
usually means novelty. The dress and undress in Siam af