s_ and
beans, and, after eating, we rolled up in our blankets and lay down on
some dried corn-husks on the ground. It was a night of suffering; the
cold was so great that our blankets furnished no protection, and the
place swarmed with fleas innumerable. At last, at four o'clock, two
hours before sunrise, we started on our journey in the hope of getting
warm. The air was damp and heavy, and, until the sun rose, we had
a desolate journey. We were again upon a limestone district, with
interesting features of scenery, and with few difficulties in the road.
We passed many oblong hills of limestone, the horizontal layers of which
upon the slopes present tiers of steps, one behind the other. These
hills were astonishingly overgrown with trees, and formed masses of
the darkest green. There was a great deal of subterranean water, and
sink-holes produced by caving over such streams were frequent. The soil
generally was a residual red or brownish clay. Flocks of gray pigeons
were startled from their roosts by our passing; and little doves were
plentiful; great hawks and small eagles were seen in pairs, hovering
high in the air. We passed several little ranches, to one of which the
name of El Zapato is given from a foot-print which is said to be painted
on the rocks at that point. Finally, we saw before us the hill behind
which, Don Manuel assured us, lay Coixtlahuaca. To mount and drop down
behind it seemed a simple thing, but we had to traverse the whole length
of the rather irregular ridge, which seemed interminable. The road which
led up to it was called the Rio Blanca--white river--an appropriate
name, as it was broad and deeply worn into the soft rock of which the
ridge consisted. When we reached the crest, we found the ridge extending
as a flat plain of light, buff-colored tufa, with many trails worn
deeply into it, and giving out, under the bright sunshine, a frightful
reflection of light and heat. Long before we reached the end of this
dreary stretch, we saw Coixtlahuaca and its adjoining indian villages,
Nativitas and San Cristobal. As we drew nearer, the view was striking.
The town is broad, but of little depth; its streets are laid out with
regularity; its great church, with masses of ruin on either side, is
conspicuous; the _plaza_ is large for the size of the town. To one side
of it are the _portales_ and the town-house and _jefatura_. To the
right of the town and behind it is a large, walled cemetery with many
graves