ound the sides of this glen, inside the numerous caves, and among the
jutting rocks were most beautiful maidenhair ferns; and on the mossy
terraces and banks, violets and lilies grew in luxuriant profusion. The
violets were exceedingly large and full of perfume, and we found, on
pulling some of them up, that they had immense bulbs; we took some of
the delicate little ferns and violet bulbs away as mementoes of this
lovely spot--[F]

"Where little caves were wreathed
So thick with leaves and mosses, that they seem'd
Large honeycombs of green, and freshly teemed
With airs delicious."

We thought perhaps these violets and lilies were planted originally by
the hands of some fair Roman maiden or matron centuries ago.

The Anio has most extraordinary petrifying properties. We saw whole
trunks of trees petrified like rocks, and our guide gave me a mass of
stones and leaves perfectly solid, but with every vein and stem
beautifully defined and marked. This enchanting series of glens and
grottoes was most probably the work of the distinguished Romans who
resided here, and employed their leisure in improving the natural
beauties of the place.

We had not time to visit the Cathedral and other buildings of interest.
The former was built on the ruins of the Temple of Hercules, which once
stood there. The Church of the Madonna di Quintiliolo is near the
remains of the villa of Quintilius Varus, on a hill facing that of
Maecenas. Near the Roman gate are remains of an octagon temple or tomb,
known as Tosse; there is a Roman bridge near Ponte Celio, also a fine
old castle built by Pius II. Massive remains of the Claudian aqueduct
are to be seen here and there. The tramcar train was ready to start on
the return journey at about 3.30, so we were obliged to leave this
beautiful and interesting place. We got back to Rome at about 5.30. This
was a most enjoyable excursion, and we should have been glad to remain
longer, but it was our last day in the Eternal City, which we were now
leaving with regret.

The Post and Telegraph Offices at Rome are beautifully situated; the
walls are frescoed with Italian art, and overlook a square of tropical
gardens. Altogether it seemed more like an Arcadian Temple than a
post-office. I found by experience that this was so, for, although I had
given the name of our hotel for all letters to be forwarded to me, I was
greatly annoyed to find a large budget had been awaiting me