s is no great climb; its four
thousand feet are quickly traversed by the funicular railway, which
takes visitors nearly the entire distance.

Up to this time the weather had been just comfortably warm, but suddenly
the wind shifted to the north-east, and blew bitterly cold.
Unfortunately, it was the very day of our proposed visit to Pompeii, and
as it was our last day in Naples, we were unable to defer it for more
favourable weather.

The drive is some eighteen miles, and no amount of rugs and wraps seemed
to protect us from the piercing wintry wind, and keep us warm.

Circling round the southern part of the bay, which is very crowded and
somewhat dirty, the sloping shores being lined with macaroni
manufactories, we soon passed through the ancient town of Portici,
which was once a place of considerable importance, and possesses a royal
palace built by Charles III., and adorned with pictures and frescoes
from Pompeii, and a museum of statues, arms, bronzes, and furniture
taken from the buried city. We next passed Herculaneum, and the town of
Resina, which is built over it; Vesuvius and the hilly country on our
left, and handsome suburban villas built on lava beds sloping down to
the sea on our right. The road, being cut through the original stream of
lava, was covered by the traffic with a thick white dust, which did not
by any means conduce to our comfort, for the nipping wind blew it up
into our faces in clouds, and the glare, caused by the occasional bursts
of sunshine, was exceedingly trying to the eyes. We were not sorry to
come to the end of our cold, two hours' journey, and find a cheerful
wood fire blazing in the little Pompeiian restaurant by which to warm
our half-frozen feet, and also something welcome in the way of
refreshment. Our little wiry horse had certainly done his duty, and
deserved our gratitude. We found the town pretty full of visitors who
had driven up, and there were continual fresh arrivals. Therefore, we
soon moved away to secure a guide to the erst entombed city. We had been
much amused, watching the novel mode of refreshment indulged in by the
active little animal that had so speedily brought us on our journey. He
had been unharnessed and taken to a bare spot thickly covered with dark
lava sand. This he seemed greatly to appreciate, for, after pawing the
ground gratefully for a few moments, down he went, and commenced rolling
himself over and over with great energy; by-and-by he rose like a