s, I believe, considered one of the most favoured of health
resorts (especially since our good Queen Adelaide resided there), and
particularly for chest complaints. But, from my own experience and that
of many others (Europeans) who have resided there a long time, I can
scarcely reconcile this to fact. It is exceedingly hot and oppressive in
summer, the glare from the rocks and stone buildings being very
injurious to the eyes, and the heat retained by the limestone during the
day making the houses very close and sultry in the night. Towards autumn
and winter there are violent atmospheric changes, and it would appear
that the spring-time of the year and early autumn are really the only
seasons in which the weather is agreeable.

I remember about December, in the year 1855, after returning from the
Crimean War, being a whole fortnight in a dreadful gale and hurricane
outside Malta. There was a tremendous sea, sometimes vivid forked
lightning, thunder, and heavy rains, the skies as black as ink. Indeed,
it was a grand and extraordinary scene, the sea in a wild and curious
commotion, rearing up around us as it were in little mountains, and
breaking in upon us in all directions,--washing away some of our boats,
and tumbling the vessel about in a most eccentric and exceedingly
uncomfortable manner, almost as if the bottom of the sea were sinking
beneath us. One night was particularly dreadful and awfully grand; the
forked lightning cutting the black clouds asunder, the winds howling
terribly, and occasionally an outburst of flame,--or rather the
reflection of it, from the far-distant Mount Etna splendidly lighting up
for a moment the black sky. It was a strange and wonderful sight,
bringing home to me the truth of the Psalmist's words, "They that go
down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters;
these men see the works of the Lord and His wonders in the deep," etc.

Having at last put safely into Malta, we were not much surprised to hear
that while we were at sea there had been violent earthquakes felt at
Malta, and nearly all round the Mediterranean. At Malta there was great
consternation; the houses were almost rocking, the church bells clanging
to drive away the supposed evil spirit, and the people sitting up with
lighted tapers.

As regards the reputed healthfulness of Malta, I think it is a mistake,
for I believe the sanitary arrangement and sewerage system are extremely
faulty, especially in the