presented a form of decoration only equalled by
that of St. Mark at Venice; there are also some very fine and
interesting monuments.
I next visited the Abbey, and some of the most beautiful cloisters I
think I ever beheld. Hundreds of delicate columns of white marble,
filagreed and inlaid with gold and mosaics, and with exquisite
capitals, rose before me on all sides, which, with the fine tracery of
the Gothic windows, formed a vista of perfect classic loveliness.
Afterwards, by the kind invitation of one of the monks, I visited the
Convent refectory above. There were some good oil-paintings here; and I
was pleased to see, by the number of schools within the building, that
good work was being done by this wealthy Convent--now probably under the
supervision of the Italian Government.
On returning, I had magnificent panoramic views of the valley and
Palermo constantly before me. I was much amused, on my way back, to see
the peasant women plaiting their daughters' hair outside their houses,
on the high-road, and doing their best to beautify it by unblushingly
introducing long artificial tresses! This was rather disappointing to my
day-dreams, as I had so much admired Nature's rich dark clustering
head-dress on the heads of the handsome Italian peasant women.
There is a nice little English church at Palermo, near the Street of
Palms, and I quite enjoyed the service, everything was so bright and
peaceful. There was a goodly gathering of English folk assembled within
its walls.
Near the Royal Palace, in the Via Toledo, is the Cathedral, a fine
Gothic pile of very striking appearance, standing well back in the
piazza, its rather quaint Campanile separated from it by a narrow
street arched over. The principal porch is in the form of a very
beautiful arch; the interior in the Corinthian style, and chiefly
interesting for the beauty and richness of the high altar. In one of the
chapels are the tombs of Roger II. and the Emperor Frederic, and those
of their respective families.
There are several other churches in Palermo well worth a visit. St
Domenico, which is built in the Doric style, is one of these; but
perhaps the most interesting of all is the ruined church of St.
Giovanni, erected by King Roger in 1132, and which was evidently in the
style of a Byzantine Mosque, with its numerous arches, low roof, and
domes. On leaving this building, and thanking the keeper for explaining
its antiquities to me, I found he belo
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