ght blue sky of
day deepens gradually through twilight into night; the stars shine out
of its soft depths with a brilliant though cold effulgence, reflected
glimmeringly in the surrounding waters, which flow in quiet stillness on
every side. There is nothing around to disturb the silent eloquence of
night, and the flow of thought and meditation.
After a long and tiring day of sight-seeing, and a re-invigorating
dinner at the hotel, it is deliciously Venetian to rest in the evening,
with windows open to the star-lit skies, and listen to the sweet
serenading of a boatful of singers, who float on the waters near the
hotel till a late hour at night, their gondola prettily illuminated with
coloured lamps, and the soft liquid sound of their voices filling the
air with melody.
The great place of resort is the _Piazza of St. Mark's_. Here, sipping
our coffee and ices at Florian's, and listening to a good band of music,
we saw a little of Venetian society, and had an opportunity of admiring
some of the beautiful and dignified patrician dames of the city, who
otherwise were scarcely ever visible. It was decidedly disappointing to
find they had almost invariably discarded the graceful and becoming lace
head-dress and mantilla, and adopted the French costume. We were much
pleased and amused at the gaily dressed nurses, who, with their quaint
silver head-dresses, and broad streaming ribbons, looked so good
tempered, and showed such pride and pleasure in the lovely dark-eyed
babes they carried; and we always looked out for the beautiful and
picturesquely attired flower-seller, who presented her tiny bouquet
with so charming a grace, and further bestowed a sweet smile on us in
return for our franc. Flocks of the soft-plumed and ever-hungry St.
Mark's pigeons would greet us, espying us from afar, circling round and
almost burying us in their midst, delighted to perch on our hands and
peck the grain we brought to throw them.
There was always a busy and moving scene in the adjoining piazzetta;
swarms of gondolas awaiting your pleasure, under the gay sunlit skies,
the gondoliers shouting, "_Gon_-dola! _gon_-dola!" in almost ceaseless
strain. It is a good plan, when going on an excursion, to carefully
select your gondola the night before. After breakfast, you will find it
awaiting you handsomely decorated, its owner smartly dressed, Venetian
sailor fashion, with blue and silver scarf; and, taking with you a
basket of good things in t
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