bery and Viviers is something like the Italian lake
district. Passing Aix-les-Bains, we run along the borders of the long
narrow lake Bourget, a fine coach road lying between us, affording a
very beautiful drive. Aix, the popular watering-place, is celebrated for
its sulphurous springs and vestiges of ancient Roman baths there. This
was a refreshing change of scenery, but the lake seemed somewhat
monotonous after the beauties of Como. At the end of the lake is a small
promontory with a castellated building, commanding a fine view of the
distant Alps.

The route after Culoz is considerably elevated. We pass several
beautiful waterfalls, and at length cross the Rhone, through whose
lovely valley we wind with just sufficient daylight to see its beauties.

"All the hues,
From the rich sunset to the rising star,
Their magical variety diffuse:
And now they change: a paler shadow strews
Its mantle o'er the mountains; parting day
Dies like the Dolphin, whom each pang imbues
With a new colour as it gasps away,
The last still loveliest, till--'tis gone, and all is grey."

Travelling through the night, we reach Paris at early morn (April 13th),
and are sharply reminded, by the severe cold, of the difference in
temperature we have lately been accustomed to in sunny Italy; the
vegetation and all else is covered with silver frost.

Paris--the gay, beautiful, busy Paris--is as brilliant as ever; every
one seemingly bent on pleasure, light and volatile as the air they
breathe. In this city life hovers April-like between a tear and a smile!
Visiting the great Cathedral of Notre Dame, we witnessed an impressive
funeral service. The coffin in the centre of the nave, near the
transept, was covered with flowers, and lighted candles were placed
around it. The friends and relations having assembled, several priests,
deacons, and acolytes appeared, and the service commenced. So far as the
priests were concerned it was very mechanical, even to the elevation of
the Host, and the sprinkling of the coffin and friends of the deceased
with holy water; but the dirge-like chanting in and between the service
was very beautiful and solemn. Many coffins were brought in and conveyed
to the different chapels within the Cathedral during this service. It
would appear that the length of the ceremonies depend upon the amount of
money paid for them: but, as in the confessional, the priests profit
more