St. Ambrogio, in the Piazza of the same name.
It was founded by St. Ambrose in the year 387. It was here that he
baptized St. Augustine, and burst out with the grand _Te Deum Laudamus_,
ascribed to him. In one of the naves is a gigantic pillar, with a bronze
serpent. It is said to be the one put up by Moses in the wilderness,
despite the evidence in Scripture of its complete destruction! Among
other remarkable things there is an ancient pulpit; a splendid shrine of
silver adorned with inscriptions and reliefs in honour of St
Augustine's life; the Ambrosian Liturgy in vellum; a curious chapel
behind the choir; and many interesting tombs, paintings, and frescoes.

The Ambrosian Library is in the Contrada della Bibliotheca, near the
church of St. Sepolcro. It was founded by Cardinal Borromeo, and
contains some 60,000 volumes and 15,000 manuscripts. Among the latter
are many treasures: a Latin translation of Josephus, by Rufinius, on
papyrus, supposed to be eleven centuries old; a copy of the Gospels in
Irish, some seven centuries old; Petrarch's copy of Virgil; and
autographic letters of Ariosto, Tasso, Galileo, Cavour, Garibaldi, and
many others. The place is rich in objects of antiquity and paintings. It
contains many of Raphael's cartoons, portraits by Leonardo da Vinci,
Correggio's _Christ_, and the _Mater Dolorosa_, Raphael's _Christ
washing the disciples' feet_, and others.

The Public Gardens afford a refreshing change from the city. They are
not very extensive, and seem mostly monopolized by gaily attired
nursemaids, with great spreading silver head-dresses, which give them
somewhat of a conceited air. They strut about as if they were nursing
the little kings and queens of the future. Around these Gardens is the
fashionable drive, which is thronged on Sundays, when the people
assemble to criticise the _elite_ in their carriages.

The ladies of Milan are handsome, carry themselves gracefully, and dress
remarkably well--no small praise in these days of pinching, deforming,
and demoralizing French fashions; but it is strange how many men--young
men especially--one sees at Milan, bent, stunted, and weak-kneed.

Milan is surrounded by a delightful country, and is most conveniently
situated for excursions to the beautiful Italian lakes.

One morning we took train for Como. It was a most interesting journey,
through fertile plains, luxuriantly clad with mulberry plantations for
the propagation of silkworms; for silk