the Lombard Alps. I looked up at this mighty barrier,
its summits deep in misty clouds and vapour, the bright sun glittering
on the thick snow, and the blue sky reflecting all manner of lovely hues
on the white slopes and beautiful plains beneath:
"Above me are the Alps,
The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls
Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps,
And throned Eternity in icy halls
Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls
The Avalanche--the thunderbolt of snow!
All that expands the spirit yet appals,
Gather around these summits, as to show
How Earth may pierce to Heaven, yet leave vain man below."
It was indeed a sublime and impressive sight--one of the grandest views
of the Alps to be obtained in Italy. The early forenoon is the time to
see it to the best possible advantage, which we were not fortunate
enough to do, the heights being frequently enveloped in mist. Away to
the south is the great hill called Superga, some 2000 feet above the
sea. From thence there is probably a much more extended view from west
to east, but the Alps would be seen from above--to my mind a far less
majestic and imposing sight; moreover, it occupies some three or four
hours to climb the Superga, whilst the observatory of the Capuchins is
but half an hour's walk. Yet this hill is decidedly worth a visit if
time be no object, not only for the noble extent of landscape surveyed
from its heights, its convent, and church, but as the mausoleum of many
of the royal family of Italy. The best views are, I believe, to be
obtained from the gallery of the college.
The _Academia delle Scienze_, in the Piazza Carignano, should not be
missed, as it contains a very interesting Museum of natural history;
Egyptian, Grecian, Etruscan, and Roman antiquities; and a fine gallery
of paintings, including some of the best works of Vandyke, Raphael,
Paul Veronese, Guido, Titian, Rembrandt, Guercino, Carlo Dolci, and
other of the great masters.
Turin appeared to me to be a particularly quiet city, especially after
business hours. The evening delights and amusements would seem to
consist of the underground concert-rooms, where the long and silent
drama is enjoyed over wine and tobacco. A peep into one of these places
showed the evident disfavour in which the priesthood is held, a nun and
a priest being introduced on the stage for the exposure of the laughter
and hisses of the audience.
Although leavi
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