ligion breathes of the free air of
heaven rather than of the cloister; neither enthusiastic nor
superstitious, but practical, manly, and healthy."

One needs go again and again to do full justice to this interesting
church, but being exceedingly cold, it is difficult to avoid taking a
chill. It is a great pity that all the churches throughout Italy are
allowed to be so cold and damp, to the injury of the valuable works of
art they contain.

We paid a hasty visit to the Cathedral, which claims Michael Angelo as
its architect. Here we admired a beautiful missal in vellum, printed at
Venice in 1498; it is full of miniatures. We also saw Rinaldo's bust of
Petrarch, who was a Canon of this church.

The Piazza delle Erbe and the Piazza dei Frutti, the quaint-looking
vegetable and fruit markets, are situate on either side of the Palazzo
della Ragione, celebrated for its vast Hall, with great vaulted ceiling,
said to be the largest in the world unsupported by pillars. It measures
ninety-one yards in length and thirty in breadth, and is seventy-eight
feet high. The inner walls are adorned with frescoes. At the end of the
hall is a gigantic wooden horse, built in sections, supposed to have
been the model of Donatello for his bronze statue of Gattamelata, or one
of the horses of St Mark's at Venice. At one time it was covered with
skin to resemble life.

We scarcely did more than catch a glimpse of that ugly pile St Antonio,
where the bones of Padua's patron saint repose--the good St. Anthony.

In the Hermitage Church are the tombs of the Carrara family; and in the
old Sacristry there is a very beautiful picture of St. John the Baptist,
by Guido; also some frescoes and other paintings, but very much spoiled
by the damp.

At the Palazzo Trente Papafava, through the kindness of its noble owner,
we saw Fasolata's most beautiful piece of sculpture, the Fallen Angels.
It is a solid block of white Carrara marble about five feet high, and
represents the angels cast out from heaven, a group of sixty-five to
seventy figures. "They are in all attitudes that the human form could
take in such a headlong descent, and are so animated in appearance that
they are almost flying. Each angel is separate from the rest, but the
whole are twisted and twined together in a complicated manner, and are
most exquisitely chiselled, even in the minutest part. The wonder is how
the sculptor reached the inner portion of the group. The archangel
Michael f