from Florence, lived
longer at Verona than at any other place, but died and was buried at
Ravenna.

"Happier Ravenna! on thy hoary shore,
Fortress of falling empire! honour'd sleeps
The immortal exile."

There is also a beautifully built town hall in the Byzantine style, with
statues of some of the most eminent Veronese--Maffei, Catullus, etc.
Then there are the law courts, the old castle of the Scaliger family,
and the vast brick Campanile, some three hundred feet high. Close to
this piazza is a little church, also in the Byzantine style, where,
enclosed by a wonderful network railing of very curious design and
beautiful workmanship, are the finely sculptured sarcophagi of the
Scaligers, the founders of the city.

Emerging from the piazza, we found ourselves in the quaint and busy
market-place, the Piazza delle Erbe, reminding me of a huge open Covent
Garden, only that here the healthy, robust market-women sit under
immense umbrellas, whilst vending their fruits and vegetables. All
around are houses of different size and form, painted in various
colours, the whole making a bright and picturesque scene. In the centre
there is a very ancient fountain; at the top are stone columns, which
once supported the winged lions--the token of Venetian rule--thrown down
on her emancipation. This market-place was the Forum in ancient times.

The Cathedral contains little worth seeing save the fine painting of the
_Assumption_, by Titian. In the foreground the Apostles are standing
beside the empty grave, looking upward at the figure of the Virgin, who
is borne aloft upon the clouds by the usual attendant angels. The effect
of this is very beautiful. The facade and porch outside are very fine.
There are two figures in red marble, of Roland and Oliver, on either
side, which are considered proof of a rather doubtful tradition that
this church was built by Charlemagne.

At the Capuchin Church we saw a _Dead Christ_, by Paul Veronese, one of
his best works. Santa Maria della Vittoria contains a _Descent from the
Cross_, by the same illustrious artist, many of whose finest pictures
are in the Pinacoteca, in the Palazzo Pompei, of this his native city.

We visited the churches of San Stefano and San Zeno. The former was once
the Cathedral of Verona, and contains the tombs of most of the bishops
who were buried there. The latter is very fine from an architectural
point of view.

One of our most enjoyable expeditions wa