turret; and
the frost-like frailness and delicacy of the whole mass, make an effect
altogether upon the eye that must stand high on the list of new
sensations. It is a vast structure withal, but a middling easterly
breeze, one would think on looking at it, would lift it from its base,
and bear it over the Atlantic like the meshes of a cobweb. Neither
interior nor exterior inspire you with the feelings of awe common to
other large churches. The sun struggles through the immense windows of
painted glass, staining every pillar and carved cornice with the richest
hues, and wherever the eye wanders it grows giddy with the wilderness of
architecture. The people on their knees are like paintings in the
strong, artificial light; the chequered pavement seems trembling with a
quivering radiance; the altar is far and indistinct; and the lamps
burning over the tomb of St. Carlo shine out from the centre like gems
glistening in the midst of some enchanted hall."

CHAPTER XXIV.

Milan social and charitable--How to relieve our Poor--Leonardo's "Last
Supper"--Condition of churches in Italy--Santa Maria delle Grazie--La
Scala Picture-galleries--St. Ambrogio--Ambrosian Library--Public gardens
--Excursion to the Lakes--Monza--Como--Lake scenery--Bellagio--American
rowdyism.

One soon becomes attached to Milan, it is so bright and clean, and the
air so pure and bracing; the country around abounds in beautiful lake
scenery, most enjoyable for trips and excursions. The means of moving
from place to place are convenient and moderate in charges, and the
living good and inexpensive. There is an air of welcome and hospitality
to visitors and strangers among the people not so readily shown in other
cities of Italy,--the highest families opening their doors to all with
very slight introduction. There are, I believe, a great number of
wealthy people here; and, judging from the scarcity of beggars--that
importunate plague, so universal in Italy--I should think the poor are
not neglected by them. This may also be proved by a visit to some of the
many charitable institutions. The Spedale Grande, for instance, is one
of the largest hospitals in Europe: its facade measures nine hundred
feet, and it accommodates upwards of two thousand patients. Like most
of the Italian hospitals, there are separate apartments for those who
can contribute towards their maintenance. The asylums for the insane are
also admirably man