rt
sojourn did not allow of our undertaking any pleasure trips.

The people looked healthy, but I did not find much to praise in the
beauty of the Veronese ladies, who, less wise than those of Padua,
discarded the graceful and becoming head-attire of black lace, and
adopted excruciating and deforming Parisian fashions.

It was a beautiful, bright, clear day when we left Verona in the
forenoon of April 5th, for Milan. Passing through the suburbs of the
town, we realized to the full the beauty of its situation, nestling in
the valley of the Adige, with undulating plains, well cultivated and
dotted with villages, and the splendid amphitheatre of hills in the
background harmoniously blending with grey blue sky, altogether making
one of the finest bits of river and hillside scenery I have ever seen.
Every commanding point bristled with fortifications. This part of the
famous quadrilateral is evidently exceedingly strong, but it would
require an immense force to garrison the forts alone. These recent
acquisitions of Italy, and her ambition to be a first-class naval power,
must very greatly increase her national debt, and probably another large
loan will soon be wanted. However, the Italians appear quite alive to
the dignity and responsibility of the position they have been suddenly
brought into since the Crimean War, and they seem determined to be equal
to it.

It was interesting to witness, close to the train, on a very fine
camping ground, the exercises of the cavalry and artillery as we passed.

At Peschiera, distant about a quarter of an hour's railway journey from
Verona, we came in sight of the beautiful Lake Garda, the snow-clad
mountains rising almost precipitously from its blue waters. A tiny
vessel, with green and red sails like wings, floated peacefully along;
the verdant fields and never-ending fortifications in the foreground.
Then, as we changed our course, the lake slowly expanded, disclosing the
soft, harmoniously tinted hills sloping upwards from its shores, a warm
mist blending their outline with the sky above. Every moment opened new
scenes of loveliness to us--little nestling villages of dazzling
whiteness; a narrow strip of plain, with clumps of cypress trees; and
presently a small island in the bosom of the lake, seemingly a tiny city
with castellated tower resting on the blue waters; great mountain peaks
rising grandly in the background. This island of Sirmione which is
connected with the mainland b