moderate charges. It is very conveniently situated at the head of the
Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, near the Cathedral, and it was certainly
cleanly; but if I ever go to Milan again, I should give the Hotel de la
Ville the preference.

Catching a glimpse of the public gardens on our way, and passing up some
of the principal streets, we saw something of the greatness and
attractiveness of the city. The station is quite a busy terminus, like
Euston, or the Midland--a fine building, and brilliantly lighted up at
night by electricity, two lamps outside illuminating the park-like
piazza. The tramway omnibuses (which are not propelled by steam, as at
Florence), move about as briskly as in London; they are, however, more
neatly and comfortably appointed than ours.

Milan, anciently called "La Grande," still looks like the capital of a
great kingdom, although, like Turin, it has been deserted in favour of
Rome. It has fine buildings, well-lighted streets, beautiful public
gardens, and brilliant shops. It is, moreover, very clean for an Italian
city, and gives the idea generally of wealth and progress, for it is
full of gay and busy life; yet it is a small city in comparison with our
own great capital, being only about seven miles in circumference, and
with a population of 320,000. Owing to its central position in Lombardy,
Milan has always been prosperous, and is one of the richest
manufacturing towns in Italy, silk and woollen goods being the chief
commodities. Since 1859, when it was incorporated into Italy, it has
also risen to the first rank in the fine arts, and, I believe, has
wonderfully progressed as an educational centre generally.

It must have been a proud and glorious day when, after the peace of
Villafranca, Victor Emmanuel and the French Emperor, with the leaders of
the allied armies, marched in triumph through Milan. Bouquets and
garlands of flowers were strewed in their way; the wounded of both sides
were brought in, and tenderly nursed by the Milanese ladies. It was
Italy's first day of real free national life; she had at last cast off
the oppressive yoke of Austria for ever! But she had still one other
adversary to conquer--the enslaving Papal power; and this she also nobly
accomplished a few years later, as all the world knows. The Italians
have a grateful remembrance of the sympathy shown and influence exerted
by England at the time of their emancipation.

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Our hotel