on frames to hold
lanterns, showing how the city was lighted in the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries. It was curious to notice the great overhanging
roofs, probably intended to give shade to the passers-by. As at Genoa,
these buildings usually have the coronet and arms of their noble owners
over the porch. The principal streets are sufficiently wide to allow of
two carriages passing, and yet leave room for pedestrians; but, properly
speaking, there are few regular foot-pavements. The shops are all one
can wish, the _cafes_ and restaurants being particularly conspicuous.

Crossing the river to the south side by one of the suspension bridges,
we had some very pretty peeps at the valley; then, mounting up to the
well-planned and finely terraced Boboli Gardens, and up to the
interesting church and cemetery of San Miniato, we obtained magnificent
views of the whole city, and the beautiful valley and plains in which it
reposes. The interior of San Miniato is now used as a kind of Campo
Santo, and has frescoed walls and an exquisitely wrought screen and
pulpit; there are also several paintings attributed to Spinello Aretino.

The Cathedral is of course the centre of life, as in all Italian cities,
and this reminds me of a beautiful thought in reference to this grand
and splendid duomo of Florence: "It was designed by the Republic to be
the largest and most sumptuous building that could be invented, in order
that it might correspond with a very great heart--because originated in
the mind of most of the citizens united together in one will." This was
indeed a noble and Christian sentiment!

It is in the Italian-Gothic style--a great casket of black and white
marble, beautified by many exquisite traceries and statues. The noble
dome is finely proportioned, but looks almost small amidst the great
pile of buildings around it, and by the graceful square Campanile rising
proudly beside it. The porches have arches most curiously but daintily
traced and twisted, the outline of the building putting one in mind of
some exquisite Indian work of ivory, inlaid with silver. Altogether it
is a strikingly handsome Duomo, and when the facade is completed, I
doubt if there is another in Italy of the kind to compare with it,
always excepting the beautiful and unique St. Mark's at Venice. It is,
however, somewhat too closely surrounded by shops and other buildings.
The interior is vast, grand, and impressive, but very cold and gloomy.
The cho