the Lung Arno of Pisa and Florence.

One of the features of Palermo is the number of reservoirs, which are
generally situated at the corners of streets, and every house in the
city accordingly has an abundant supply of water. This must also be a
great source of cleanliness and healthfulness.

For a tour of a few weeks, I can fancy no place more interesting than
this fair island. The enchanting Straits of Messina, Catania, Mount
Etna, and lovely Aci Reale; the ancient Girgenti and Syracuse with their
Greek and Roman ruins; Marsala and Palermo. It is also close to the
interesting island of Malta, and is the highway for steamers to all
parts. The place is healthy, and, finally, the living is good and
moderate in price. Travelling, too, is convenient and cheap: the
tramways run quite round Palermo, and the carriages are better and
cheaper than in any other city in Europe.

Although travelling in Italy has its drawbacks, I have found more
pleasure in moving amongst the Italians than the French. There is an
evident respect and grateful sympathy felt by the former towards
England, while the French take no pains to disguise their antipathy. Yet
we were blindly intent on making the Channel Tunnel, foolishly supposing
it would convert our sullen neighbour into a sincere friend and
commercial ally.

I could not but notice in Palermo, the vigorous efforts of the Italian
Government to suppress brigandage. I constantly saw some of the plumed
Bersaglieri posted in the most out-of-the-way places, commanding the
various passes, in order to surprise any attempt that might be made.

Before leaving Sicily, I cannot refrain from recalling that perfect
avalanche of stirring incidents that took place in 1860--incidents that
far eclipse all other events recorded in the momentous history of this
lovely island; and, as the death of the patriotic Garibaldi is still of
somewhat recent date, and the subject is one of universal interest, I
shall, in the following chapter, briefly sketch these thrilling events,
with certain particulars of the part taken therein by the English which
have not been publicly known before.

CHAPTER XVI.

Annexation of Nice and Savoy--Garibaldi's protest--A desperate venture--
Calatafimi--Catania--Melazzo--Entry into Naples--Gaeta--The British
Contingent--Departure from England--Desertion--Arrival in Naples--_Colonel_
"Long Shot"--Major H----'s imaginary regiment--Dispersion of the