e _elite_
of the town, and at about three o'clock in the afternoon these
thoroughfares are crowded with the carriages of the Palermian
aristocracy. The circus, where the two roads meet and intersect each
other, forms a large open space called the "Ottangolo," from its
octagonal shape; each of the eight sides is formed by a beautiful
building or fountain. This place is a favourite lounge for soldiers and
idlers generally, who come here simply to enjoy their cigarettes in the
open, sunlit air, and in the hope, like the ancient Athenians, of
hearing "some new thing."

The Bersaglieri regiment, in their shining black hats, with flowing
cocks' plumes, cut a great dash. I often wondered where all these
feathers came from, as the cock seemed quite a _rara avis_ at Palermo.
Perhaps, after all, one fact explained the other, and I had been mixing
up cause and effect. The military were evidently proud of themselves and
their past exploits with Garibaldi; they had certainly proved that there
was plenty of sturdy pluck about them. They are in general a small,
swarthy, handsome set of men, but with rather too much of a swagger for
soldiers who had seen service. The ladies are graceful and dignified; a
trifle too pale, I thought, but I have since learnt that this pallor is
studiously acquired--I suppose, to give more sentiment to the
expression: in other countries, ladies seem inclined to go in for a
_little more_ colour. The nocturnal-like existence of the Sicilian
ladies, however, should be quite sufficient to produce the desired
pallor, without any artificial aid. Their evening commences at 10.30,
when tea is served, and you are lucky if you can contrive to get away by
2 a.m. As a matter of course, they are invisible during the morning, and
are seldom seen before three o'clock in the afternoon, when they drive
out to gain fresh vigour for their nocturnal existence.

From January to May, I believe Palermo is considered a very healthy
place for invalids. It is not subject to changes of climate, and being
on an island is perhaps the cause of its advantage over other places on
the Italian coast, and especially those situated more inland, and on a
river, such as Rome, Pisa, and Florence; for these rivers are generally
the receptacles of the city sewage--dirty, muddy, and polluted streams,
and most unhealthy during the warm season. Yet, strange to say, these
river-sides are frequently selected as chosen places of residence, as
witness