rds
adorning the fine coast heights, and the blue sea beyond. The fine
expansive plains around Etna brought to mind England's great naval hero,
Nelson, for here was situated the territory of his Dukedom of Bronte,
which in those days yielded good crops of Marsala wine. I was really
sorry not to be able to spend a few days at Catania, and view more
closely the lovely region around Aci Reale; but it was just here that
we suddenly branched off to the west, and plunged into the heart of the
island. Away we went up the mountain heights, the night closing in, and
a glorious moon uprising. Sometimes we were on the mountain-tops, then
again descending into the valleys beneath, only to rise like eagles, and
mount to the summits once more; the moon circling round the peaks,
occasionally hidden, and then appearing as if again rising in silent
majesty over the beautiful landscape. About midnight we approached the
coast and proceeded along by the shore once more, the great waves
dashing almost up to the train as we rushed swiftly by. Soon I saw the
semicircular lights of the harbour of Palermo, and in a short time the
train steamed into the station.

I think this was the grandest and most interesting railway journey I
ever made, and I shall not soon forget the impression I received.

CHAPTER XV.

Palermo--Oriental aspects--Historical facts--Royal Palace--Count Roger
--The Piazzi Planet--The Palatine Chapel--Walk to Monreale--Beauty of the
Peasantry--Prickly pears--The "Golden Shell"--Monreale Cathedral--Abbey
and Cloisters--English church--Palermo Cathedral--Churches--Catacombs of
the Capuchins--Gardens--Palermo aristocracy--The Bersaglieri--Sicilian
life and characteristics--Climate and general features.

Palermo, formerly Panomus or All Port, and originally a Greek
settlement, is situated in a beautiful fertile valley, and presents much
the appearance of a magnificent garden. The approach from the sea is
splendid, as a full view is then had of its beautiful bay, spacious
harbour, bold headlands, high cliffs, and the great mountain ranges in
the distance, which form so grand a background.

There is a very fine sea-wall, with a drive extending some two or three
miles along the coast, and from this the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele
extends right through the city, crossed about the centre by another fine
road, the Via Macqueda, and these, the two principal streets, divide the
city into four equal