old part of the city, where the wells are
absolutely contaminated and unsafe to use without boiling and filtering
the water. There is also a kind of bad and dangerous intermittent fever
at Malta, like that at Gibraltar--endemic, I should think. My wife has
recently lost a very dear sister (who resided in this island), chiefly,
I believe, from these last two causes, and hence I speak rather
earnestly on the subject.

Altogether, what with fever, ophthalmia, etc., one can scarcely call
Malta a healthy place. The fact is, in that latitude, with so
over-crowded a population, the natives most unclean in their habits, and
with faulty and inadequate sewerage system, one could not expect
otherwise.

In February, March, and a part of April, when my wife was there, the
weather was unsettled, stormy, and cold nearly all the time.

Strada Reale, where the great public square and governor's palace are, I
believe, is (or used to be) the principal street, and the shops there
are very attractive, especially the jewellers', with their exquisite
silver and gold filagree work; and also the places where the beautiful
Maltese lace is sold. Strada Zecca, a peaceful, shady, and silent
retreat, used to be the street of the Government offices; and we see
here many of the old palaces and houses of the Knight Crusaders, some of
which are rather peculiarly constructed inside. There are the
overhanging shading roofs, as at Genoa and other places; but the
Knights, not being permitted to marry, had no families, and so did not
require many sleeping-rooms: therefore, in most of the houses of Valetta
the reception-rooms and courts are spacious, lofty, and handsomely
decorated, and occupy by far the larger portion of the building, while
the sleeping-rooms are narrow, confined, and limited in extent.

Sliema and St. Julian's Bays, three or four miles off, are the little
Brightons of Malta, whence the residents change the sultry heats of the
city for the cool and refreshing sea breezes, healthful sea-bathing, and
_something_ in the shape of verdure and green fields. These places, St.
Paul's Bay, and the adjacent Island of Gozo, are the chief resorts for
excursions, picnics, etc. At Valetta nearly the only country walk used
to be to the (so-called) Gardens of St. Antonio; and it was rather
melancholy to see the stream of poor human beings almost confined to
this one walk, like invalids at some water-drinking health resort, or a
moving mass of regimental