o the highest advantage every fine
building, the exceeding purity and whiteness of which is thrown up by
the dark green forest behind. In speaking of Genoa, I remarked that its
situation was unequalled in its imposing grandeur; and here in Messina
we have a beauty equally unsurpassed, though of a different kind;
perhaps as a bit of our English landscape would compare with the grander
Scotch loch scenery--a soft, bewitching, and enticing loveliness. The
style of architecture resembles that of Pisa.

We had only a few hours here, as the steamer for Malta was to leave the
same evening. There was sufficient time, however, to take a walk through
the town, which has fine and well-paved streets. There is but little of
antiquity left in Messina, except the old Cathedral, which contains
some good mosaics and bas-reliefs; and perhaps a few mementoes of the
gallant Knight Crusaders, who sorrowfully made this their temporary home
about the year 1523, after surrendering Rhodes to the hated Moslem. The
constant earthquakes, as well as the many vicissitudes of war it has
passed through, has destroyed all other relics of the past.

The hotel charges and living generally were exceedingly moderate, more
so than we had experienced since leaving England. I believe this is the
case with all the hotels in Sicily, the soil being so prolific and
productive. At 5 p.m. I saw my wife on board the Florio steamer
_Electrico_, which carried the mails, and was due at Malta the next
morning about six. It was a nice little paddle vessel, and her captain a
very gentlemanly officer; the stewardess, though a Maltese, spoke
English, and so I felt my wife would be comfortable and well cared for
during the voyage. Unfortunately, however, the wind increased, and by
morning there was quite a gale blowing, which made me a little anxious
about her safe arrival.

I was pleased that my wife should visit this small but most memorable
island, though I was unable to accompany her, as there are so many
historic associations attaching to it. During my Naval career from the
Crimean War days, I had myself often been to Malta, but to her it would
indeed be a new world.

Malta, or Melita, is probably chiefly interesting to English people as
their great Mediterranean stronghold and Naval Arsenal; to Christendom,
for the glorious deeds of the brave and self-sacrificing Knights of St.
John, and as the place where the great apostle to the Gentiles was cast
ashore and bitte