become industrious, intelligent and
loyal subjects, as the Protestant communities of Ireland are.
We found our nine days' visit all too short; it was but a race and
scamper at best, and we regretted our inability to visit all the objects
of interest in this city of museums and art galleries. The days at Rome
are very short, as most places where there is an entrance-fee (and there
are few without), are only open between the hours of ten and three. This
may be a profitable arrangement for the doorkeepers, but it is difficult
to see much in five hours.
The morning of our departure from Rome arrived at last, and we sighed at
the thoughts of having missed so much, and seen so little.
"The grandeur of Rome
Could I leave it unseen, and nor yield to regret?
With a hope (and no more) for a season to come
Which ne'er may discharge the magnificent debt?
Thou fortunate region! whose greatness inurned,
Awoke to new life from its ashes and dust;
Twice-glorified fields! if in sadness I turned
From your infinite marvels, the sadness was just."
Ancient Roma and the remains of her past greatness will ever be
impressed upon our memories. An empire once so mighty, the Mistress of
the World; then for so long desolate and entombed, a city of ruins; and
now, phoenix-like, rising rapidly from her ashes, and preparing as
"Young Italy" to take her place as a power among the other nations of
Europe, many of whom have already welcomed her as a sister.
* * * * *
On the morning of the 26th of January we left Rome for Naples, some 163
miles by railway.
For many miles we travelled almost in a direct line, and on a level
plain through the Campagna, close to one of the great aqueducts, and
with the Via Appia always following in the distance, until we passed the
first station, Gaimpino, when we crossed this fine old Roman road, and
wound round the base of the hills. We saw an almost endless succession
of ruins--the tombs of Pompey, Dominician, and many others of the
conquerors and arbiters of the world in bygone times. Then through
Albano and Curioli, from which Coriolanus obtained his famous surname.
Among the hills we caught glimpses every now and then of the Campagna,
bright with heather; and sometimes, also, of the blue sea beyond.
We next passed through Civita Lavinia, near the site of Lanuvium, the
birthplace of Antoninus Pius. The Via Appia here
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