the correct thing to do so. "See Naples
and then die," is a common saying: we felt quite contented to "see
Naples" and go on living. I cannot but think the place has been
overrated, though I will admit that we did not see it at its best, and
that perhaps in the full glow of a summer sun it may equal the rapturous
descriptions that have been given of it. Certainly the beauties of
Nature are not appreciated by all alike, mind and sentiment influencing
us differently.

The English church was a few hundred feet below us, across the road,
through the hotel gardens. This road is a new one, and extends some
miles along the slope of the hills overlooking the town, and leads from
the extreme end of the city right round to the other side of the coast
promenade. The principal street is the Via Roma, where there are some
fairly good shops. I should say that lambskin gloves, which seem a
speciality, cameos, and corals are the only things worth buying here.
Some of the cameos cut on the natural shell are very beautiful and
unique.

Naples was an exceedingly gay city in the time of King Bomba, and as
long as it was the seat of government. It is still said to be the gayest
city in Italy, and there certainly seems to be a great pursuit after
pleasure. Excepting with those who have business to look after, life
scarcely begins till about three o'clock in the afternoon, when the
carriages roll about, up the Via Roma, and along the Riviera di Chiaja,
by the sea, which is the Rotten Row of Naples. In the time of Bomba's
despotism the people really had little else to do than to amuse
themselves, for they had then practically no voice or interest in the
government of the two Sicilies, and so became careless, luxurious, and
indolent--content to live idly on their hereditary means, smoke, gossip,
sip their chocolate, eat their macaroni, roll about in their carriages,
and wind up their monotonous and useless day at their earthly paradise,
the opera, where they gossiped and flirted to their hearts' content. In
consequence of this manner of life, the men have become effeminate, and
the women have little left of that characteristic grace and beauty that
once so distinguished the Neapolitans.

So far as I have seen, in France, Italy, and elsewhere, I am proud of my
own countrywomen. In grace, dignity, purity, and beauty, they are
pre-eminent, morally, mentally, and physically: an Englishwoman only
fulfils my idea of--

"A perfect woman, nob