for some
days, especially as it included a telegram from London. I fancy that the
everlasting "weed" has much to do with this dreamy forgetfulness of
important duty. Even in the Government department the cigarette seems as
necessary as the pen; from morning till night it is rarely laid aside.

Some of the hotels in Rome we thought very expensive; but the Hotel de
Ville is moderate, comfortable, and altogether satisfactory.

We found the weather too chilly to be pleasant at that time of the year,
and there was a fair quantity of rain, usually lasting about two days;
but the atmosphere was generally fresh and healthy, and some days were
warm, bright, and sunny. I should think February, March, and early April
the most agreeable months to spend there. The mornings are the best part
of the day: excursions to various places of interest should be
accomplished by 4 p.m.

I fancy many travellers expose themselves to fever, and other ills, by
neglecting to take proper nourishment at regular hours--in their
forgetfulness of health--when occupied in "sight-seeing." They should
make it a rule to commence the day by a good substantial breakfast,
instead of the French coffee and rolls in their bedroom, as is mostly
the custom; at midday, always taking care to have luncheon at their
hotel or the nearest _cafe_. Again, they cannot be too particular about
overcoats and other warm garments; for the marble-paved, unwarmed
churches are extremely chilling, and so are even the streets on the
shady side, at this time of the year (January). There is little doubt
that Papal and Old Rome, where most of the visitors reside, is
over-crowded and badly drained, and hence subject to typhoid and other
fevers. It is therefore to be hoped that they will prefer the more
healthful and modern quarter of the city, New Italy, near the railway
station. Under any circumstances, they cannot be too careful as to the
water they drink being properly filtered.

The bulk of the inhabitants live closely packed between the Corso and
the Tiber, some in fine palaces, splendid indeed, yet with little
comfort, the rest in small and miserable dwellings. These latter, at
least, will doubtless disappear in time as the population gradually
become aware of the expediency of rebuilding this quarter of the city,
some parts of which offer striking contrasts of gorgeous splendour and
squalid misery. Whiteside, speaking of a traveller's impression on
arriving at Rome, says, "Whi