the driver--there being no horse to drive.
The man runs between the shafts, and is often preceded by a leader,
harnessed on in front, tandem fashion. Each of these vehicles holds
one person, and they go along at a tremendous pace.

We went first to the Consul's, where we got a few letters, and then to
the Post Office, where many more awaited us. We had then to go to
various places to order stores, fresh provisions, coals, and water,
all of which were urgently needed on board, and to give directions for
the repair of boats, spars, &c., with as little delay as possible. All
this business, including the inevitable search for a good laundress,
lay in the European quarter of the town, the appearance of which was
not remarkable. But the people we met in the streets were a study in
themselves. The children said they looked 'like fans walking about;'
and it was not difficult to understand their meaning. The dress of the
lower orders has remained precisely the same for hundreds of years;
and before I had been ashore five minutes I realised more fully than I
had ever done before the truthfulness of the representations of native
artists, with which the fans, screens, and vases one sees in England
are ornamented.

While we were going about, a letter was brought me, containing the sad
news (received here by telegram) of the death of Tom's mother. It was
a terrible shock, coming, too, just as we were rejoicing in the good
accounts from home which our letters contained. I went on board at
once to break the bad news to Tom. This sad intelligence realised a
certain vague dread of something, we knew not what, which has seemed
to haunt us both on our way hither.

[Illustration: Japanese Boats.]

CHAPTER XIX.

YOKOHAMA.

_Heavily plunged the breaking wave,_
_And foam flew up the lea,_
_Morning and evening the drifted snow_
_Fell into the dark grey sea._

_Tuesday, January 30th_.--When we awoke from our slumbers this
morning, it was very cold and dark, and we heard noises of a strange
kind. On going on deck to ascertain the cause of this state of things,
we discovered that the sky-lights and portholes were all covered and
blocked up with snow, and that the water froze as it came out of the
hose, forming a sheet of ice on the deck. Masses of snow and ice were
falling from the rigging, and everything betokened that our welcome to
Japan would not be a warm one.

[Illustration: Fujiyama, Japan]

After break