even increased in violence, the
snowstorms became more frequent, and the sky was dark and overcast.

We had service at eleven and again at four. The sun set cold and
stormy, promising a wild night. At times the shore was quite hidden by
the snowstorms, though only a few cables' lengths off.

_Monday, February 19th_.--The wind and weather became worse than ever,
and, as time was precious, Tom decided to retrace our steps for a
short distance and go through the Bungo Channel, between the islands
of Sikok and Kiusiu, instead of going out to sea through the
Simono-seki Straits, as, in the latter case, the gale would be right
in our teeth, and we should make but little progress. Now we shall be
under the shelter of Kiusiu and the Linschoten and Luchu islands for
at least two days, and so make a fair wind of it. Steering due south,
too, we may hope to be soon out of this horrid weather. The only
drawback to this plan is that we shall miss seeing Nagasaki, which I
much regret. There are no great sights there, but the scenery is
pretty, and the place is interesting owing to the fact that it was the
first and for many years the only, port open to foreigners, and also
the scene of the cruel murders of Christians and the site of the
beautiful island of Pappenberg. Shanghai I do not think I regret so
much, though Tom would have been interested to talk with the merchants
about their commerce, and to see their houses, many of which are, I am
told, perfect palaces. It would be very cold there, too, at this time
of year; and I do so long to lose my cough and feel warm once more.

At 8.30 p.m. we weighed and proceeded under steam. The views of the
mountains, between the snowstorms, were lovely, with the fresh-fallen
snow shining in an occasional gleam of sunshine. We soon passed the
Isaki light, with wind and tide in our favour, and at sunset found
ourselves in the open waters of the North Pacific.

_Tuesday, February 20th_.--A lovely day; the thermometer already
twenty degrees higher than it was yesterday. The wind had dropped, and
at 10 a.m. it had become so calm that fires were lighted.

It was delightful to see everybody and everything on board--people,
children, animals, and birds, all and each sunning themselves, and
trying to get thawed after the freezing they have had. We have
unfortunately lost one of the Hawaiian geese, which I much regret, as
it is irreplaceable. None have, I believe, ever been exported before.
The pig f