s, and the establishment of other ports, have resulted
in driving many people away from the place, and the abolition of the
coolie traffic has also tended to diminish the number of traders. Now
the town has a desolate, deserted appearance, and the principal
revenue of the government is derived from the numerous
gambling-houses.

We landed at the pier soon after five o'clock, and were carried
across the peninsula through the town to the Praya on the other side.
Here we found a large unoccupied mansion, situated in a garden
overlooking the sea, and, having delivered our Chinese letters, were
received with the greatest civility and attention by the comprador and
the servants who had been left in charge of our friend's house. The
rooms upstairs, to which we were at once shown, were lofty and
spacious, opening into a big verandah. Each room had a mosquito room
inside it, made of wire gauze and wood, like a gigantic meat-safe, and
capable of containing, besides a large double bed, a chair and a
table, so that its occupant is in a position to read and write in
peace, even after dark. This was the first time we had seen one of
these contrivances. By the direction of the comprador the house chairs
were prepared, and coolies were provided to take us for an expedition
round the town, while our things were being unpacked, and the
necessary arrangements made for our comfort. Macao is a thoroughly
Portuguese-looking town, the houses being painted blue, green, red,
yellow, and all sorts of colours. It is well garrisoned, and one meets
soldiers in every direction. We passed the fort, and went up to the
lighthouse, which commands a fine view over land and sea; returning
home by a different way through the town again, which we entered just
as the cathedral bell and the bells of all the churches were pealing
the Ave Maria. On our return we found a fire lighted and everything
illuminated, and by half-past eight we had a capital impromptu dinner
served. Chinese Tommy, who waited on us, had decorated the table most
tastefully with flowers. Macao is a favourite resort for the European
residents of Hongkong who are addicted to gambling. The gentlemen of
our party went to observe the proceedings, but to-night there were
only a few natives playing at fan-tan--a game which, though a great
favourite with the natives, appears very stupid to a European. The
croupier takes a handful of copper cash and throws it upon the table;
he then with chop-stic