n caused by the typhoon in
1874. Next we paid a visit to the garden of Camoens, where he wrote
his poems in exile.[20] The garden now belongs to a most courteous old
Portuguese, with whom I managed, by the aid of a mixture of Spanish
and French, to hold a conversation. The place where Camoens' monument
is erected commands, however, an extensive prospect, but we had
already seen it, and as Tom was anxious to get clear of the islands
before dark we were obliged to hasten away.

[Footnote 20: Luiz de Camoens, a celebrated Portuguese poet, born
about 1520; fought against the Moors, and in India; but was often in
trouble, and was frequently banished or imprisoned. During his exile
in Macao he wrote his great poem 'The Lusiads,' in which he celebrates
the principal events in Portuguese history.]

On reaching the yacht, after some delay in embarking, we slipped our
anchor as quickly as possible, and soon found ourselves in a nasty
rolling sea, which sent me to bed at once. Poor Tom, though he felt so
ill that he could hardly hold his head up, was, however, obliged to
remain on deck watching until nearly daylight; for rocks and islands
abound in these seas, and no one on board could undertake the pilotage
except himself.

_Thursday, March 8th_.--When I went on deck at half-past six o'clock
there was nothing to be seen but a leaden sky, a cold grey rolling
sea, and two fishing junks in the far distance, nor did the weather
improve all day.

_Friday, March 9th_.--Everybody began to settle down to the usual sea
occupations. There was a general hair-cutting all round, one of the
sailors being a capital barber, and there is never time to attend to
this matter when ashore. The wind was high and baffling all day. At
night the Great Bear and the Southern Cross shone out with rivalling
brilliancy: 'On either hand an old friend and a new.'

_Saturday, March 10th_.--A fine day, with a light fair breeze. Passed
the island of Hainan, belonging to China, situated at the entrance of
the Gulf of Tonquin, which, though very barren-looking, supports a
population of 150,000.

Repacked the curiosities and purchases from Canton and Hongkong, and
made up our accounts.

About noon we passed a tall bamboo sticking straight up out of the
water, and wondered if it were the topmast of some unfortunate junk
sunk on the Paranella Shoal. There were many flying-fish about, and
the sunset was lovely.

_Sunday, March 11th_.--We feel that we are goin