r attempted capture of a
water-snake a couple of feet long. We threw sticks and stones and our
syce waded into the stream, but all to no purpose; it glided away into
some safe little hole under the bank.

We reached the sea-shore about six o'clock, and found the Maharajah's
steam-launch waiting to convey us across the Straits to the mainland.
These Straits used to be the old route to Singapore, and are somewhat
intricate. Tom engaged a very good pilot to bring the yacht round, but
at the last moment thought that he should like to bring her himself;
the result being that he arrived rather late for dinner. The Maharajah
and most of the party were out shooting when we arrived; but Sir
William Jervoise met us and showed us round the place, and also
arranged about rooms for us to dress in. Johore is a charming place;
the Straits are so narrow and full of bends that they look more like a
peaceful river or inland lake in the heart of a tropical forest than
an arm of the mighty ocean. As we approached we had observed a good
deal of smoke rising from the jungle, and, as the shades of evening
closed over the scene, we could see the lurid glare of two extensive
fires.

We sat down thirty to dinner at eight o'clock. There were the
Maharajah's brothers, the Prime Minister, Harkim or judge, and several
other Malay chiefs, the Governor of the Straits Settlements, his
family and suite, and one or two people from Singapore. The dinner was
cooked and served in European style; the table decorated with gold and
silver epergnes full of flowers, on velvet stands, and with heaps of
small cut-flower glasses full of jasmine. We were waited on by the
Malay servants of the establishment, dressed in grey and yellow, and
by the Governor's Madras servants, in white and scarlet. The Maharajah
and his native guests were all in English evening dress, with white
waistcoats, bright turbans, and sarongs. The room was large and open
on all sides, and the fresh evening breeze, in addition to the
numerous punkahs, made it delightfully cool. The Maharajah is a strict
Mohammedan himself, and drinks nothing but water. I spent the three
hours during which the dinner lasted in very pleasant conversation
with my two neighbours. We returned on board soon after eleven
o'clock.

[Illustration: Maharajah of Johore's House.]

_Monday, March 19th_.--Mabelle and I went ashore at six o'clock for a
drive. It was a glorious morning, with a delightfully cool breeze,
an