ot enjoy it much, pleasant as it was. Very
soon after supper we came away and had a charming row across the
harbour to our snug quarters on board the 'Sunbeam.' These sudden
bursts of dissipation on shore are a delightful change after days and
weeks at sea.

_Wednesday, May 9th_.--I was up soon after sunrise and admired this
often-abused creek as much as I always do. The stone houses, the
carved and coloured verandahs of bright flowers, the water lapping the
very door-steps, the gaily painted boats with their high prows at
either end, the women in their black dresses and faldettas, and
black-robed priests, all helped to carry the imagination over the
Mediterranean and up the Adriatic to lovely Venice. At this hour in
the morning there were not many English soldiers or sailors to spoil
the illusion.

Malta is essentially a border-land--African by geographical
configuration, European politically, and assuredly Asiatic in its
language, its buildings, and in the manners and customs of the
natives. We gave everybody on board a holiday, and the chance of a run
ashore to-day to stretch their legs after their long sea voyage. Tom
went on board the 'Sultan' to see the Duke of Edinburgh and his
splendid ship. Whilst at breakfast I received an intimation that the
Duke of Edinburgh wished to come and examine the yacht. His Royal
Highness arrived soon afterwards, quite unattended, in a beautiful
ten-oared barge, and paid us a long, visit, inspecting the yacht
minutely and looking at all the pets. He took a great interest in our
voyage and courses, as well as in the numerous curiosities, knowing at
once from what place each had been procured. The Duke, who had taken
very nearly the same cruise himself in the 'Galatea' a few years ago,
inquired very kindly after all his old friends at Tahiti, Hilo,
Honolulu, and many other places. The Duke is very kind to everybody
here. He is much liked by his brother officers in the squadron, and
both H.R.H. and the Duchess seem to have made themselves most popular
here during the winter. The officers of the 'Sultan,' several of whom
are old friends of ours, appear to think themselves fortunate indeed
in having such a commanding officer, whilst on shore his approaching
departure is universally regretted. Everybody seems full of their
Royal Highnesses' winter ball, which must have been a most brilliant
affair.

[Illustration: Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta]

After the Duke's departur