sy reefing the sails, we nearly ran ashore. Luckily I
noticed our danger and called Tom, who came up just in time to alter
the helm, when the yacht went round like a top, though the shore was
too close to be pleasant. It only shows how easily an accident may
occur. Both our fishermen-mates could not bear to be idle, and always
considered looking out an insignificant occupation, and so neglected
that important duty to assist with the sails.

Off Cape St. Vincent it blew so hard that we were afraid we should be
obliged to bring up in the bay of Sagres; but we found that it was
only a land breeze, and that it was much smoother outside than we had
expected.

_Friday, May 18th_.--Fresh breeze. We met many steamers going down the
coast with all sail set. After passing Cape Espichel the wind
increased to a northerly gale, against which it was impossible to
proceed. We therefore put into Lisbon. The mountains at the mouth of
the Tagus, the tower and church of Belem, and the noble river itself
looked even more beautiful in the sunset than my recollection led me
to expect. We soon landed and had an excellent dinner at the Hotel
Braganza, where we had stayed before, and where we were at once
recognised and cordially received by the same landlord and landlady we
remembered in 1861.

After dinner we went for a walk. One of the things we saw during our
stroll was the fine statue of Luiz de Camoens, specially interesting
to us, as we had so recently seen the place where he passed many of
the weary years of his exile. Rolling Motion Square was as giddy as
ever. It was a curious fancy to pave it in such a way as to make it
look like the waves of the sea, perpetually moving; and it must be a
severe trial to the peripatetic powers of those who have not quite
recovered their sea legs.

_Saturday, May 19th_.--We were off early; it was a lovely day, and we
had a pleasant drive to Cintra. On our arrival we mounted donkeys and
went to Pena, the beautiful palace of the ex-King Ferdinand, situated
at the top of the mountains. It is an extraordinary-looking place,
the different parts being built in every imaginable style of
architecture, with exquisite carving and old tiles that would delight
the heart of a connoisseur. One of the most prominent objects near the
Palace of Pena is the statue of Vasco da Gama, nobly placed on a
pedestal of natural rocks, piled on the summit of a mountain peak, and
worthy of the adventurous traveller it is erec