ted to commemorate. The
gardens are full of camellias, roses, bougainvillea, &c. We lunched at
the excellent hotel, and came to the conclusion that Cintra is the
place, not only 'to spend a happy day,' but many happy months. It is
always pleasant to revisit places of which you have agreeable
reminiscences, and to find your expectations surpassed instead of
disappointed.

[Illustration: Vasco da Gama]

We had a hot drive back to Lisbon, and then went by tram to Belem,
where we spent some time in the church and in wandering through its
exquisite cloisters. The first stone was laid in 1500, and the name
changed from Bairro de Restello to Belem or Bethlehem by Prince Henry
of Portugal, the great promoter of maritime discovery in that century.
It was built specially to commemorate the successful voyage of Vasco
da Gama, who returned from the discovery of India in 1499.

[Illustration: Belem Cloister Gardens]

Tom met us with the yacht, and, we went on board with the intention of
proceeding straight to sea. But after passing through the Canal del
Norte a heavy gale obliged us to anchor in Cascaes Bay for the night,
not far from a small schooner yacht with three ladies on board. It was
rather rough, and we were very tired, or I think we should have
ventured to pay them a visit, even at that late hour. It is absurd to
stand upon ceremony when travelling; but I scarcely know what the
strict etiquette would be on such an occasion--whether they, as first
anchored in the bay, should call on us, or we on them, as probably the
greater travellers and out longer at sea.

_Sunday, May 20th_.--Weighed at 5 a.m. There was a dense fog off Cape
del Roca, and the steam-whistle, foghorns, and bell were constantly
kept going, with lugubrious effect. We had service at eleven and 4.30.
Passed the Burlings at 1.30. Heavy swell all day.

_Monday, May 21st_.--Rough and disagreeable. Off Viana at noon. Passed
Oporto and Vigo in the course of the afternoon.

_Tuesday, May 22nd_.--If yesterday was bad, to-day was worse. We hove
to for some time under the shelter of Cape Finisterre, then went on
again for a short distance; but at 1.30 a.m. on the 23rd we were
obliged to put round and wait for daylight.

_Wednesday, 23rd, and Thursday, 24th_.--In the course of the day the
weather mended, though the sea still continued rough, and our course
was really in the direction of America rather than England. In the
evening of the 24th we were able to li